Tsiakkas Winery, Pelendri, Lemesos, Cyprus
Vineyard at an altitude of 1460 meters. This is Tsiakkas Winery
Tsiakkas winery was established in 1988 just outside Pelendri village on the Troodos Mountains, in the Pitsilia wine region. The first year’s production was 500 bottles of a red wine called Thyrsos.
Recently a new style of Commandaria and Zivania were added to the products of the winery. The total acreage of the vineyards under winery management stands now at 13 hectares. These are situated in Pelendri, and nearby villages.
Today the winery produces 200,000 bottles a year and sells mainly to the local market. Upscale restaurants, 5 star hotels, wine shops and a small number of supermarket chains constitute the local clientele. Exports are made to nine countries, namely to Greece, England, USA, France, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, China and Belgium.
"Commandaria is considered the oldest wine in the world not because it is the first to be produced but because it is the first recorded method which is still practiced until today. Commandaria name was given by the crusaders when they conquered the island and divided it into commanderies, meaning districts... Mavro Ambelissimo and Xynisteri are used to make Commandaria. Any combination the winemaker decides from 0% Xynisteri to 100 % Xynisteri. The more Xynisteri the paler the colour, the more Mavro the darker the colour. Also the Xynisteri gives higher acidity and more fruit, This is why we chose 100% Xynisteri which is not common for commandarias".
Costas Tsiakkas answers the questions of the Yellow Road,
photos courtesy of Nikolas Christodoulides, owner of the Tsiakkas Winery,
1 - Please tell us a little about yourself. How did you become a winemaker?
I started wine making in 1988 while I was working with the bank. I always felt an attraction for rural life and although I had a good post at the bank, I never really liked the banking sector. I was at the time a loans officer and I left the bank in 2001 as branch manager. My grandfather was a winemaker and a wine merchant ( a negociant as the French call the winemakers and also those who were buying wine from other winemakers and selling it under their own brand)).
2 - Cyprus is the oldest wine producing country. Its wine history goes back 5,500 years. The wine that was produced at that time was called the Cyprus Nama. His modern version of Commandaria? Can you clarify how this wine differs from modern wines?
Are these ancient vines preserved in your vineyards?
Commandaria is considered the oldest wine in the world not because it is the first to be produced but because it is the first recorded method which is still practiced until today.
The commandaria that is made from the big wineries is not the same like the one produced in the old days. At the time it was not fortified but today it is. Also today the wine must be aged for two years in oak barrels . At those times it was produced and stored in amphorae which in Cyprus are called pithari. As a winery we brought back some of the old practices like non fortification, organic farming, and we are in the process of working with wild yeasts because in the old days they did not inoculate, and amphorae are the new challenge. Probably for next year. Commandaria name was given by the crusaders when they conquered the island and divided it into commanderies, meaning districts.
3 - Now the record for the Yellow Road is 1,460 meters. Why climb to such a height?
Cyprus is a rather hot region. Summers are hot and winters are mild. In order to achieve favourable conditions you either must find a microclimate that suits the conditions or go high. The higher you go the less fertile the soil is, the lower the temperature and the colder the winters. We have vineyards at 1000 meters and 1460 meters and we can tell the difference. Higher acidity and better fruit.
4- What is the name of your wine, which is made from high-rise grapes?
Sauvignon Blanc barrique is made from this vineyard but recently we planted Xynisteri in this vineyard and by next year we will be producing Xynisteri high altitude as well from this vineyard.
5- What was the name of the grapes that were used to obtain Commandaria?
Are these ancient vines preserved in your vineyards?
Mavro Ambelissimo and Xynisteri are used to make Commandaria. Any combination the winemaker decides from 0% Xynisteri to 100 % Xynisteri. The more Xynisteri the paler the colour, the more Mavro the darker the colour. Also the Xynisteri gives higher acidity and more fruit, This is why we chose 100% Xynisteri which is not common for commandarias. We do not own the vineyard from which we make Commandaria. It is under a long term lease. It has been organic since 2017, vegan since 2018, and it is 7 km from the winery in the Commandaria region, We are not in the commandaria region. So we vinify in the region and then we age in our own cellar
6- During November visitors have the opportunity to taste the fresh whites of the recent vintage and during May they can taste the previous year’s reds right after they are taken out of the barrels.
When is it better to come to Cyprus: spring or autumn?
The best time to visit wineries is in Spring. Many times the whites are not ready in November for a number of reasons. Battonage, oak aging for some wines or part of the wine, fining, filtering etc. So it is better in Spring to taste both the new whites and the previous vintage reds.
7- What is the most significant award for you?
Cyprus made bad wine for years. The awards for the Cyprus wines were usually given by the former eastern bloc countries where the wines were exported not on a quality merit but on a political directive. Since the 1980’s this has started changing but not overnight. So in the 90’s some good wines were produced worthy of participating in objective competitions other than the eastern bloc. We were part of this effort to be recognised abroad and started participating in competitions. We got a bronze medal in 2001 for our Cabernet 1998 in Greece. It was not a great award. It was however a good push for us to continue participating and in 2015 we got a regional trophy from Decanter for Xynisteri 2014.
8 - List, if possible, a set (gift box) of three or four of your own wines(red and white), which, in your opinion, can decorate the "poster" of your farm?
For us the most unique wines are the ones from indigenous varieties. We are very proud of Yiannoudi since we are the winemakers in Cyprus to come out with a Yiannoudi label. Promara is another local variety which was reintroduced in recent years. The comments are very good and importers are very keen on ordering these wines. We also produce a very different Zivania and Commandaria, which also are unique, since we are the only ones who age Zivania in oak casks for 10 years.
9 - How to get from Limassol to your vineyards? Is there public transport in Pelendri village?
Take the exit towards Platres/ Troodos and after Trimiklini turn right towards Pelendri. We are 3 kms before Pelendri village. We are well signposted and are on Google maps.
10 - If it's not a secret, share your plans for the future?
My personal plans are to retire soon. I have an oenologist and another son who is a viticulturist n and expect to hand over to them the management of the business. The winery’s plans are to expand the vineyards with local varieties, increase its presence abroad, since we have the largest export network among the small wineries in Cyprus.
11 - I read on your website that your region is famous not only for wine, but also for sausages. If you have a favorite restaurant in Pelendri village, please share. Well, what's your favorite dish?
The most famous restaurant is Symbosio taverna. There are others as well but not as famous. However the food is exceptional in all of them, service is very good and price wise they are pretty much the same.
12- What is your choice (white wine) for "Yellow Road"?
Xynisteri
13- What white wine producer (from Cyprus or another country) would you recommend for Yellow Road?
Vlassides winery is a place to consider.
Sergey Evtuhov,
author of the "Yellow Road" project
